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Topics - Rancid Crabtree

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Archery / Hawaii bowhunting blog
« on: December 30, 2017, 11:05:43 PM »
In mid February Im taking my wife to Hawaii for a week. Im not really a beach guy so Im going to be doing some bowhunting while there. I'm still uncertain as to exactly which islands I want to hunt and what species aside from pigs (staying on Kauai but may island hop for other species) but Im going to make some new arrows and perhaps a different broadhead for this trip. I'll take the longbow and that setup is already sound and ready but I'll also take my Bowtech RPM 360 (set at 64 lbs) so Im going to make some heavy arrows ( around 10 grain per pound for 600+ gr) arrows. Ive Already ordered some 100 grain brass inserts and other items for the build.

Ive contacted as many guides/outfitters I could find with internet searches as well as contacting some locals with pig problems. We will be staying on the SE coast of Kauai using the Kauai Marriott Lihue as home base. Sadly it looks as though the Axis deer will be in very early velvet development at that time of year so they may be off the table. I'm building heavy arrows with extreme FOC because I hope to hunt Vancouver Bulls (Feral cattle)

Outdoor Related Craft Projects / Beaver and Elk mittens
« on: January 03, 2017, 07:25:48 AM »
My brother traps and got a beaver. He tanned it himself and wants a pair of chopper mitts. Since the hide was not professionally tanned its not been thinned and its not as soft or pliable as I would like but the fur is great.

In the picture below, the head is to the left. The thickest part of the hide is near the neck and down the spine. Its thinner at the belly so each mitten will have varying thickness unless the leather is thinned.

The thickest portion is nearly a 1/4 inch. Your seeing the finger tip area (thickest) and the thin part is from the other mitt in the wrist area. These thicknesses need to be the same or the mittens will be too stiff.

Thinning and oiling makes the hide a bit more flexible but the hide is not as flexible as a professional tanner would make them.

Then the two halves are sewn together inside out.

With the aid of time and a broom handle they are turned right side out. Its delicate work not to damage the hair.

I made the liners for the mittens using polar-tech fleece. Its thick and warm and soft.

Here my hand model wears them.

The liners are inserted into the mittens and my hand model shows how the finished mittens look. They are heavy and thick and warm. They should last a long time.

Archery / Early season deer decoying (video)
« on: October 03, 2016, 05:37:54 AM »
Saturday's East winds didnt work for our stands so I set a decoy on a greenfield. Here is how all the deer (and other animals) reacted to the buck decoy.

General Discussion / A happy/satisfied customer tale
« on: August 29, 2016, 08:40:36 AM »
As a consumer, we all make purchases and then immediately determine whether we made a good choice or not. We are either happy or unhappy with what we bought and that covers both the end product and the customer service. Many times we read online about deal gone bad and poor customer service and a warning of regret to others but I have a story opposite of the usual complaints. 

I have a positive story of a recent purchase. I was in the market for decals/stickers for the work truck and stumbled across Rooted Decals in a Facebook group I belong to. I know how much bowhunters like to display thier pride in Bowhunting with stickers on their trucks so I pass this along. I messaged Andrew Burke to ask questions about the custom brand logos for our company. He was very friendly and easy to work with and turned around my 7 custom decals in just a few days. I got 6 decals for the truck box and 1 for the rear window. 

If you are in the market for custom graphic for your ride or any application for quality decals at a fair value, give them a look right here on Facebook.

I am in no way compensated by or affiliated with Rooted Decals. I am only a happy customer sharing a happy customer tale.

Outdoor Related Craft Projects / The M.T.A.B.S. hunting seat
« on: August 18, 2016, 07:46:26 PM »
I like to hunt from the ground in natural debris blinds and pop ups at times but I don't like the available options for ground blind chairs. I hunt river bottoms that are soft ground so chair legs sink which means the need to also haul in some sort of flooring material. Couple that with the fact that chairs are clumsy to haul and expensive (Some are really expensive). I don't care for a stool because stools offer no back rest and stools are not comfortable because of that fact so any chair I use has to have a back rest. Most stools with back rest also include arms but arms get in the way of drawing a bow so it cant have armrests. It has to be easy to carry and light weight and cheap so when its stolen, I'm not out anything.
As part of a DIY, problem solving group, I've been looking for a simple, low cost seat for all manner of ground hunting for spring turkey, bear, deer and things like stream-side and Ice fishing, camping, berry and shroom picking, and any other use where a ready seat would be handy. A comfy, reliable seat that we can make ourselves that is really cheap since its likely to be stolen if left unattended.
This is the M.T.A.B.S.
Multi-function (Because you can carry your lunch and thermos and other gear in and deer heart and mushrooms and berries and small game or fish out with you)
Tactical (Because its painted black and its used for hunting so now-a-days, that makes it Tactical.)
All Terrain (Because it sounds cool and it can really be used in all terrains)
Bucket (Because it uses a 5 gallon bucket)
Seat (Do I really need to explain this part)
Its made of plywood and offers a back rest. The parts fit in the bucket. Its light weight and the cost of scrap plus paint.

Now that we are back from our 4th of July trip it?s time to start a storage shed project that been on the back burner for a while. My son and I are building the shed. Its time to take the garage back which has become the manufacturing area for Innovative Outdoorsman products and we need a better storage area for all the ladder and chain on tree stands and climbing sticks and deer decoys and other hunting gear and yard tools. We designed the shed and gathered all the supplies before the holiday. Its going to be a 12 x 12 shed with a roofed overhang on one side. The shed will have 8 foot walls and a couple windows. It will have double doors, a ramp for the riding mower and a roof vent because sheds can get pretty hot inside. The plan is to work on the shed in the afternoon/evenings after work each day as weather allows. I?ll use this space to detail the project as we make progress. Here is a drawing of the shed we designed and used to generate the bill of materials.

I know every state has different laws on fresh kill transport and western states hunters do things different than midwest hunters (we are midwest hunters that bring out game animals whole to transport them to our processing setup on the farm where we break them down and process them like livestock in a clean, butcher room setting with running water, tables, etc) so we prefer to bring out game animals whole.

Im in my 50's and hunt solo most of the time and have a bear hunt coming up this fall so my son and I upgraded my bear and deer loading gear for my truck because loading a bear or a large midwestern buck into the bed of a truck with a high bed is not an easy task for a single person. We hoped to make it easier.

After trying and testing out a variety of methods (not a bad way to spend Fathers day working with your son getting ready for bear and deer season) We ended up with a 7:1 ratio block and tackle (freshly re-strung with 115 feet of rope) and an 8 foot (trough style) ramp to keep animals centered rather than sliding off the edge. Here is a 1 minute video of the final product and a test pull of 225 lbs (I think it was actually more than 225 since the crate corners really dug into the ramp increasing the friction) Either way, he should be good to go for any animal he kills while hunting alone.

Outdoor Related Craft Projects / Truck bed storage solution
« on: May 17, 2016, 06:20:12 AM »
It was time to make some storage solutions for the back of the truck.

A short video showing how it goes on and off.

Outdoor Related Craft Projects / DIY pickup truck tonneau cover
« on: May 16, 2016, 07:04:23 AM »
Because we will be attending more and more sports shows , we need a bit more security in the long bed of our truck (8 foot bed). We looked at tonneau covers and didn't care for the fabric versions as they can be breached with a knife. Other versions did not do what we wanted and it seemed all came in Black and that is not an option as the items under that black cover in the heat of the sun would be cooked  in the incredible temperature that would be generated under a black cover. That heat would cook or bows and other gear.

So we opted to make a project out of it and make our own folding cover. It will be made from wood. We expect it to come in under $100, be about 50 pounds so one person can take it on and off and it will be the color of our choosing (a very light color). We may even decorate it our company logo. The frame will be pine and the cover will be 1/4" plywood. Everything will get two coats of raw wood primer and then 2 coats of paint in a color yet to be determined.

Until we began this project we were unaware that the bed of this truck actually tapers/narrows from front to back. We assumed it was a simple rectangle. The 3 sections of the cover will fold on themselves (3 hinges on each section) but would also be able to be opened individually as needed. Here are some pictures of the progress so far.

To match the curve of the tailgate we added a curved segment to the rear most section.

Construction is complete and its time to move onto the protecting it. 2 coats of Kilz primer.

The top side will be Behr Exterior "Silver Screen" in semi gloss.

But first, the underside (side nobody sees) will get two coats of exterior semi gloss in a camo green from a past project.

While the coats of paint dry, time to figure out how to project our logo on the cover so it can be painted on the top side.

The painting is complete so its time to fill in the blank slate

We want to paint our Black Claw logo on the rear-most section of the bed cover. But we may also add the Stay Sharp logo to one of the other sections.

To do this we need to project the Black Claw logo as a very large image (5 feet across), Since we don't have a projector we will make our own laptop projector. A couple of old cardboard boxes painted black inside.

The projection lens is an 8.5 x 11 lens from the dollar store.

The magnifying lens reverses the image so we had to flip it on the screen image.

I made the two boxes so I can slide the two to bring the image into focus.

The basement wall is the test backdrop and with the lights off it gets dark enough to be able to project using only the brightness of the laptop screen so we can pencil the logo in place to make it easier to paint following that pencil outline.

The projection is far clearer than this photo indicates but I could not use a flash.

After penciling the outline, it was time to paint.

One down, one to go.

While the primary concern and reason for this project is bed security we hope to make the folding cover as weatherproof as possible considering the fact that we have 3 sections and hinged jointsgaps. To make sure the seams are as small as possible the hinges were recessed in the wood.

To further discourage rain from entering through the hinge seam we thought the gap could be filled with flexible silicone rubber caulk. In order to make the seal as tight as possible the plan is to use a caulk gun to apply a bead (or beads) of caulk to one of the sides of the hinged joint and then close the cover causing the caulk to ooze out and fill the gap. To prevent the caulk from sticking to the other half of the joint, we applied a couple coats of paste furniture wax and buffed it. Once cured, the gap would be filled with flexible rubber and it wont stick to the waxed side of the joint.

The perimeter of the sections that come in contact with the side of the truck bed will get adhesive backed, rubber weather-stripping. This will quiet the vibration/noise that would otherwise occur between the hard plastic and the painted wood. It will help keep the paint from being abraded and will provide additional sealing from rain. It pretty cheap so if it wears it can easily be replaced.

Keeping the sections closed will be done with spring loaded plungers. We picked up a 10 pack on Ebay for $8. They have a lengthy throw distance but the handles were on the small side so we increased the size of the handles with short sections of micro diameter arrow shafting and J.B. weld. The nose of the retractable plungers will fit into holes we drilled through the hard plastic bed liner and metal of the bed. We used a 1/4" drill.

Because the sections fold onto one another I cant have a hard handle so we fashioned a handle from left over webbing.

The finished weight is 55 Lbs so its easy enough for one person to remove.

Here is a video showing how to install and remove the cover.

Archery / 2016 Archery bear hunting blog (the homemade edition)
« on: April 04, 2016, 07:31:26 AM »
I'll use this space to keep a journal now that Ive drawn a WI fall bear tag. I will be hunting zone D with Northern Bayfield County Guide Service

 I plan to hunt with a bow and arrow as I have no interest in hunting bear with a firearm. Im leaning towards using a traditional bow and most likely one Ive made myself. I plan to make my own broadheads and arrows as well as other homemade items for this hunt. Ive taken deer with all homemade gear but Ive not taken a bear so here's my chance. I have 6 months to prepare. I will chronicle all of that here.

The brown truck dropped off a 3D printer for archery and bowhunting related prototyping. (and for generally playing around)

As well as a variety of ridged and flexible filament to proto design concepts.

First up is prototyping a broadhead for an upcoming bear hunt.


We are playing around with the 3D printer making prototypes of things we have been wanting to make or improve upon.

First up is a vision of an improved version of an existing product to replace fletching. FOB's are a good product that can be made better. Not necessarily for sale but for personal use, education and enjoyment. I made the ring a bit smaller but the fins a bit bigger.

It weighs slightly less than the FOB brand

clearance from a drop away will be a bit better with this version.

They have a 4 degree offset but I want 7 but may increase that further. FOB's fins are flat. I made this with a curve or radius like an airplane wing to see if that will improve flight. (Again, experimenting)

Time to make a few more and test shoot them.

After test firing them they still hit my face. We are getting closer but time to improve further.

1. Improved rest clearance.
2. Reduced face contact.
3. Reduced weight. (less than existing FOB and closer to 3 Blazers/glue)
4. Increased spin rate.
5. Increase total surface area of fins.
6. Airfoil fins rather than flat.

By making the annular ring smaller and pushing it forward 3/4", the facial contact issue improves as does rest clearance. I prototyped an early version yesterday but went back to the drawing board today.

Next up is a call for the stupid, smelly field carp.

I printed the pot for the call. One in black and another in Black and red and designed in some text just for giggles.

Then made aluminum sound boards

Aluminum and cooper

and a sliding top for the striker to change the tone.

Just waiting for the epoxy to cure to test them for sound.

A 3D printed shelf with hooks we made for hub style blinds.

Adding some hooks and shrink tube.

To quiet the shelf an old mouse pad and double sided tape was used.

Perfect fit.

Plenty of room on the shelf and to hang things.

Archery / Sherwood Forest Bowman (Sussex, WI) Traditional archery shoot
« on: February 04, 2016, 06:59:11 AM »
Sherwood Forest Bowmen in Sussex will be hosting an indoor 3D brush shoot and an outdoor 3D shoot Feb 6, 2016. Shooting hours are 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM. Breakfast, lunch, and beverages will be available. Traditional archery gear only.

For more info contact Greg Szalewski at 262 853 4648.

Address:N61 W25600 Walnut Rd. Sussex, WI 53089

Directions to clubhouse:

Outdoor Related Craft Projects / Badger Mittens
« on: March 30, 2015, 06:39:59 AM »
I was asked to make a pair of leather Chopper mittens for a UW Wisconsin Badger fan.  I will make these a two tone design using split cowhide suede for the palms and cow leather tanned to look like buckskin for the backs. The removable liners will be fleece with a Wisconsin Badger pattern.. Here is the starting point.

Leather parts cut out and ready for red trim.

The buckskin cow hide lends itself well to adding ink. Bucky badger added.

All the leather and trim and ink complete.

Then a deep soaking with a silicone waterproofer and set aide to dry while I work on the fleece liners. It darkens the leather but once dried goes back to its original color.

To make sure these mittens are warm I doubled up the fleece. Here are the pieces before sewing.

In progress.

The finished fleece liners with trim added.

The liners in the mittens.

My hand model wearing the finished product.

Outdoor Related Craft Projects / Steam bending snowshoes
« on: February 16, 2015, 06:54:23 AM »
Ive wanted to learn to make snowshoes for some time but never got around to it. Now is the time I guess. Before I make actual sized and wearable shoes I will start by making half scale versions. Here is the process Im using as I learn about steam bending wood. Im using oak since Ash is hard to come by. I shape and thin the oak stick in the areas where the bends are otherwise it will break and I have broken many until I got a pattern that works.

The form I made.

The high tech steam creator (since one cant buy steam, premade)

The steam chamber is PVC

After a hour of steam It can be coaxed around the form.

and the nose bent

After a day or two its dry enough to hold the shape and crossbars are added and its sanded because the steam raises hell with the wood

Then I lace the heel and toe with deer skin and varnish everything.

Since the prototypes are half scale and cant be worn I will turn them into art pieces. The first batch will have deerskin leather enters with artwork.

Again, these are half scale.

Then I thought, since this is the 21st century I would make electric snowshoes so I bought a small light and cordset and fashioned up a lamp but I wanted a lamp that I could customize or change with the seasons. For the lampshade I printed oak and birch skin on legal sized paper on my printer. For the frame I steam bent small strips of oak.

Then I thought about adding a background that appears only when the light is on. (with oak)

Then birch

Then I went kind of nuts because its easy to change the skins.

The sky is the limit for options in regards to silhouettes but then I had another thought on how to customize behind the bark only when the light is on.

Then I went kind of nuts.

Now Im thinking 2 snowshoes side by side to create a shelf or other ideas for how to use these half sized shoes.

Big Game Recipes / Ven snack sticks with cheese and jalapeno
« on: May 06, 2014, 09:52:01 AM »
Im evaluating some products from Frisco Spices so I pulled a bunch of venison trim out of the freezer as well as pork shoulder trim. I used 16 pounds of Venison and 9 pounds of pork shoulder and gave it a few days to thaw in the cooler.

I ground the meat last night through the 3/8 plate.

I grind the night before the smoking because cure (Sodium Nitrate) is added to the meat and it needs time to cure the meat.

These sticks will also have mixed in with the meat some dehydrated  and crushed Jalapeno as well as high temp cheese.

This is the cure/salt. It normally pinkish in color.

I mix the seasoning and cure and jalapenos with 3 cups of water to better distribute it with the meat. Trying to mix dry seasonings with ground meat never works well and you end up with pockets of over seasoned as well as pockets of underseasoned meat. The cheese will be added later.

After seasoning and mixing the meat is packed tightly so there are no air pockets and then covered and removed to the cooler overnight so the cure can do its work.

This morning I preheated the smokers and then ground the meat a 2nd time. This time through a 1/8 inch hole plate.

The cheese is added right before stuffing.

Its kept frozen until its poured over the meat and then mixed in with the meat for even distribution.

Then half is loaded into the 100 year old Enterprise stuffer and the wife and I get to work.

I normally use 19mm collagen casings but this package came with 21 mm so they will finish out a littler larger in diameter than my finger. Larger diameter just mean more time in the smoker.

The stuffer tube  I made will work for as small as 18mm (3/8 of an inch

Collagen casings are edible but unlike natural casings do not need to be rinsed in water. They are used right from the package. I turn the crank and my wife regulates the fill to make sure they are not underfilled and so they don?t burst. Collagen will split and burst if you try to get them too full

The lengths are coiled during stuffing. Its just easier to manage them that way.

I start with the smoker preheated to around 100F and all dampers open. The coils are then straightened out and since my smoker was built with lots of head room, I cut them into 66 inch lengths and pinch the center where they will hang on the smoke sticks.

For these sausages I will use a mix of Hickory and Pecan chunks.

After one hour of dry time I add the wood chunks to start smoking. Less in more when it comes to smoking sausage. You don?t want soot or ash so a little smoke is all that?s needed.

Throughout the morning and afternoon I slowly raise the temp to 180F. I have a remote probe in one stick of sausage so I can monitor the batch. When they get to 170F the door is opened and they are allowed to cool in the smoker.

The distribution of cheese and jalapeno flakes looks good.

When cool enough to work with, they are removed from the sticks and then cut into manageable lengths. They then are placed in the cooler overnight and then vacuum sealed. 25 pounds of meat with the water, cheese, spices and jalapenos came out to 30 pounds of pre-smoked sausage. The final weight of the finished product was 20 pounds.

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